MAX DONOS: Valentino

Valentino Pre-fall 2015-16

Once again, following upon my 2016 New Year's resolution to use up my fabric stash, I pulled out a gorgeous cotton-silk blend from Fabricville in sage colour. Inspiration for the garment was drawn from this beautiful pre-fall 2015-16 Valentino blouse. I had to shop for trims, as I did, again at the Fabricville store. I bought wide cotton and narrow synthetic lace trims.

This is my first time to show you my working sketch. Not very informative, it narrows down my ideas and gives me a sort of navigation map to where I want the garment to end up. It helps tremendously in the patternmaking process.

Blouse sketch

The pattern follows the basic Rundschau (Мюллер) dress pattern. I omitted waist darts. Created separate pieces for the back and front yokes, chest decoration.

French seems in the making

Back yoke attached to back bodice

Assembled front bodice

Stitching down sleeve lace inlays

Sleeve plackets are ready for cuffs

Fabrication is simple. However, I spent most of the time on the pleats and narrow sleeve lace inlays. Collar gave me a literal back ache. Side and sleeve seams are French seams. Sleeve buttons are shell buttons. Collar has a fabric covered button and a thread chain loop. Oh, and I added a little bit of sparkle to the front lace.

I have to admin that this particular blouse took forever to come together (I started it in October 2015). But hey, spring is almost upon us!

I was lucky today, and caught my darling for lunch. She was wearing my creation: Valentino inspired blouse. Here are the originals, from Valentino Pre-fall 2015-2016.

Valentino Pre-Fall 2015-2016

and this one

Valentino Pre-Fall 2015-2016

I bought this fabric a while ago (~2014) at Fabricville, it is cotton and silk blend - very light and delightful to the touch. First I thought to make a summer shirt for myself, but my client talked me into making this blouse. I had to go to the same store again and look for trims, lace, etc. I was not wise enough to take the fabric swatch with me, however, the only bolt of blue lace in the store happened to be a perfect match for the fabric (which I discovered at home).

Cotton-silk blend, blue lace, natural shell buttons and "soft seams" ribbon.

I used the same tried and tested self-drafted pattern (Rundschau system - Atelie magazines). However, having some experience sewing pleats before, I cut front and back pieces wider and longer than the patter, sewing the pleats and lace inlays first, then laid the pattern on top of the sewn fronts and cut them. The same I did with the back, only had to fold it. I repeated the same process for the sleeves.

Shoulder and sleeve seams

French side seams and hem

All inner seams are French (enclosed). I used the "soft seams" tape on the sleeve and shoulder seams.

For the sleeve placket I used the same pattern and techniques as for the men's shirt.