Balmain inspired cropped tuxedo for James

Balmain inspired cropped tuxedo jacket

Inspiration came from Olivier Rousteing, and this cropped tuxedo jacket appears almost in every season's collection in a different iteration.

Balmain menwear, FW-2016

I chose a navy-black synthetic blend fabric from fabricville. The weight was quite heavy, but it was not horrible to work with. The satin for the lapels came from the same place. Lining fabric came from sultansfinefabrics.com.

I drafted the pattern using Rundschau system (Мюллер, журнал Ателье). It went well, but I see some adjustments required, especially in the back. The sleeve was huge - I took out 6cm in circumference, and still find it wide.

I did not fuse the fronts. I used hair canvass down to the waist, as well as horsehair and French collar canvas for the shoulder area. I made the shoulder pads myself.

The pockets are jetted, however they kept opening up, so I sewed them shut.

There are 3 decorative metal shank buttons on the sleeves. I was relieved to not make buttonholes.

James is happy.