MAX DONOS: blouse

Showing posts with label blouse. Show all posts

Easter 2014

I attempted at drafting a pattern for my mother is law. I used the same Rundschau (Мюллер - Ателье) system. In my experience, it works well - I did not have to alter much at all.

The fabrics for this project came from Fabricville. Lightweight cotton ($3/m), medium weight black for skirt ($4/m), skirt lining ($3/m), skirt zipper ($2), black buttons for the blouse ($3/50pcs - Ebay).

Ruffle trim around the collar and front placket.

Qipao style blouse in cotton

This post will be short.

The idea behind the project was to re-create a beloved blouse from Mango, which we bought in 2002.
I copied the style-lines onto the Rundschau draft to adjust the blouse to the correct size.

The cotton fabric was bought in Fabricville. It sewed like a dream. I would have preferred to have made up the blouse in thin Irish linen, but it is notoriously impossible to purchase in my neighbourhood.

I played with the piping for the first time. I used thin polyester cord inside, and it seemed to work fine. I used a special piping presser foot for the most part, and where sewing elements were too complicated, I resorted to the zipper presser foot for more control.

Covered buttons are my first experience as well. I cannot say I enjoyed it very much, because it takes some persuasion for the fabric to stay inside the top part, and then some more to lock the bottom part of the button in. In some cases I used carpenters glue to keep the whole thing together. The quality of these particular buttons is poor as well and they tend to break.

I used thin elastic cord to create button loops.

And there is an invisible zipper in the side of the body.

These red jeans are my making as well ;-)

Valentino Pre-fall 2015-16

Once again, following upon my 2016 New Year's resolution to use up my fabric stash, I pulled out a gorgeous cotton-silk blend from Fabricville in sage colour. Inspiration for the garment was drawn from this beautiful pre-fall 2015-16 Valentino blouse. I had to shop for trims, as I did, again at the Fabricville store. I bought wide cotton and narrow synthetic lace trims.

This is my first time to show you my working sketch. Not very informative, it narrows down my ideas and gives me a sort of navigation map to where I want the garment to end up. It helps tremendously in the patternmaking process.

Blouse sketch

The pattern follows the basic Rundschau (Мюллер) dress pattern. I omitted waist darts. Created separate pieces for the back and front yokes, chest decoration.

French seems in the making

Back yoke attached to back bodice

Assembled front bodice

Stitching down sleeve lace inlays

Sleeve plackets are ready for cuffs

Fabrication is simple. However, I spent most of the time on the pleats and narrow sleeve lace inlays. Collar gave me a literal back ache. Side and sleeve seams are French seams. Sleeve buttons are shell buttons. Collar has a fabric covered button and a thread chain loop. Oh, and I added a little bit of sparkle to the front lace.

I have to admin that this particular blouse took forever to come together (I started it in October 2015). But hey, spring is almost upon us!

Diesel Black Gold F-W 2014-2015.

So, this is a story of the most worn and loved blouse I've ever made.

The client wanted a non-fitted "interesting" blouse to wear with... red jeans I made some time before. I had a variety of black fabrics in my stash bought obviously for other purposes. Alas, I proposed a sheer for sleeves, a non-sheer for the bodice, and satin for collar, placket and cuffs.

Fabrics, natural shell buttons, snaps and rivets

I threw in natural shell black buttons, ordered snaps and rivets on aliexpress.

Front of the blouse

This was the first project that I took pictures as I was going along.

Fronts assembled with rivets.

Sleeves and cuffs

Blouse before attaching snaps to the collar and cuffs.

The blouse has several pleats in the front, and just side bust darts to keep the silhouette straight.

The collar is my first attempt at a biker-style stand collar. I think I should adjust the pattern to make it hug the neck better.

Cuff with snaps

Collar and placket details

I used medium fusible interfacing for the collar and cuffs, but left the placket soft.

Office-friendly blouse

And finally, on the model!

Biodome, Montreal. With Alexei and Iacov. (and red jeans)

I was lucky today, and caught my darling for lunch. She was wearing my creation: Valentino inspired blouse. Here are the originals, from Valentino Pre-fall 2015-2016.

Valentino Pre-Fall 2015-2016

and this one

Valentino Pre-Fall 2015-2016

I bought this fabric a while ago (~2014) at Fabricville, it is cotton and silk blend - very light and delightful to the touch. First I thought to make a summer shirt for myself, but my client talked me into making this blouse. I had to go to the same store again and look for trims, lace, etc. I was not wise enough to take the fabric swatch with me, however, the only bolt of blue lace in the store happened to be a perfect match for the fabric (which I discovered at home).

Cotton-silk blend, blue lace, natural shell buttons and "soft seams" ribbon.

I used the same tried and tested self-drafted pattern (Rundschau system - Atelie magazines). However, having some experience sewing pleats before, I cut front and back pieces wider and longer than the patter, sewing the pleats and lace inlays first, then laid the pattern on top of the sewn fronts and cut them. The same I did with the back, only had to fold it. I repeated the same process for the sleeves.

Shoulder and sleeve seams

French side seams and hem

All inner seams are French (enclosed). I used the "soft seams" tape on the sleeve and shoulder seams.

For the sleeve placket I used the same pattern and techniques as for the men's shirt.

Sleeve placket

Collar stand with hand-stitched lace, and hand stitches show in the back after attaching lace trim

Lace trim at the back and on the collar had to be pieced together and attached by hand.

Collar detail

Back detail

And here it is on the model.

Collar detail

Sleeve detail

Club.season.ru runs a "competition" on "breathtaking" blouses sewn at home. I've posted only one or two of my home sewing projects since I have taken to it. With this opportunity I've asked my lovely client and spouse to model the latest blouses and shirts I've put together.

I use the simplest sewing machine for my projects, an iron and ironing board. No other equipment.

The pattern for all the garments is self-drafted by the Mueller system (following its Russian version in Atelie magazines). The pattern is a shortened fitted dress pattern with basic sleeve.

First one up is inspired by Prada men's shirt from 2013-2014, black and white gingham (Vichy) pattern with jabot.

Prada shirt 2013-2014

The fabric I used for the project was from a discount pile at Fabricville in Gatineau, if I remember correctly, at a whopping $3/meter. It is cotton with some stretch in it. Actually, a very easy one to work with.

Gingham fabric from Fabricville

The blouse has basic bust and waist darts front and back, menswear inspired sleeve placket and collar with stand, jabot and sleeve frills cut from selvedge.