Easter 2014
I attempted at drafting a pattern for my mother is law. I used the same Rundschau (Мюллер - Ателье) system. In my experience, it works well - I did not have to alter much at all.

The fabrics for this project came from Fabricville. Lightweight cotton ($3/m), medium weight black for skirt ($4/m), skirt lining ($3/m), skirt zipper ($2), black buttons for the blouse ($3/50pcs - Ebay).

Ruffle trim around the collar and front placket.

Elie Saab inspired magenta dress
The inspiration for this dress came from Elie Saab's 2014 Resort collection
 (c) Elie Saab 2014 Resort
Of course I had to make changes to the design. First of all, the client wanted a dress with long sleeves. Second, the fabric in my stash was a medium-heavy weight one, most likely a synthetic of some kind, not stretchy, with a lovely diagonal ribbing effect. At first, in the store, I assumed it was a ribbed jersey, however... The fabric sewed beautifully, though the colour bled when I decanted the fabric prior to working with it. Did not shrink, I think. And third, the client wanted a more modest gorge treatment.
This was my second ever dress made from the Rundschau (Мюллер) pattern. I copied the front and back pieces and freehanded the style lines on them. Then, copied pattern pieces with seam allowances.
Construction: there is horsehair interfacing in the front to keep the shape of the upper part of the dress. There are thin hand-made shoulder pads, and sleeve roll pads (bias strips of soft medium weight wool). Invisible zipper (my second in a dress). The dress is fully lined.
Front style lines detail
Front neck opening and back lining detail
Lining attached to the bottom of dress
Lapped slit in the back
I had to re-sew the zipper several time to match the back

Back unzipped with lining picking out
 Et voilà. Merci!
Easter 2014
Qipao style blouse in cotton
This post will be short.

The idea behind the project was to re-create a beloved blouse from Mango, which we bought in 2002.
I copied the style-lines onto the Rundschau draft to adjust the blouse to the correct size.

The cotton fabric was bought in Fabricville. It sewed like a dream. I would have preferred to have made up the blouse in thin Irish linen, but it is notoriously impossible to purchase in my neighbourhood.

I played with the piping for the first time. I used thin polyester cord inside, and it seemed to work fine. I used a special piping presser foot for the most part, and where sewing elements were too complicated, I resorted to the zipper presser foot for more control.

Covered buttons are my first experience as well. I cannot say I enjoyed it very much, because it takes some persuasion for the fabric to stay inside the top part, and then some more to lock the bottom part of the button in. In some cases I used carpenters glue to keep the whole thing together. The quality of these particular buttons is poor as well and they tend to break.

I used thin elastic cord to create button loops.

And there is an invisible zipper in the side of the body.

These red jeans are my making as well ;-)
Valentino Pre-fall 2015-16
Once again, following upon my 2016 New Year's resolution to use up my fabric stash, I pulled out a gorgeous cotton-silk blend from Fabricville in sage colour. Inspiration for the garment was drawn from this beautiful pre-fall 2015-16 Valentino blouse. I had to shop for trims, as I did, again at the Fabricville store. I bought wide cotton and narrow synthetic lace trims.

This is my first time to show you my working sketch. Not very informative, it narrows down my ideas and gives me a sort of navigation map to where I want the garment to end up. It helps tremendously in the patternmaking process.

Blouse sketch

The pattern follows the basic Rundschau (Мюллер) dress pattern. I omitted waist darts. Created separate pieces for the back and front yokes, chest decoration.

French seems in the making
Back yoke attached to back bodice

Assembled front bodice
Stitching down sleeve lace inlays
Sleeve plackets are ready for cuffs

Fabrication is simple. However, I spent most of the time on the pleats and narrow sleeve lace inlays. Collar gave me a literal back ache. Side and sleeve seams are French seams. Sleeve buttons are shell buttons. Collar has a fabric covered button and a thread chain loop. Oh, and I added a little bit of sparkle to the front lace.

I have to admin that this particular blouse took forever to come together (I started it in October 2015). But hey, spring is almost upon us!

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